Laugavegur Hiking Trail: Day 04
The last day of one of the best trail in the world.
FROM EMSTRUR-BOTNAR HUT TO PÓRSMÖRK
This final day was supposed to be great as the trail is ending and every step looks like a victory, so we left Emstrur campsite at around 9:00am ready for a total downhill difference in altitude but soon we discovered that actually is more a up/down/down path.
After half an hour we crossed the river we've seen the night before and discovered a beautiful viewpoint for photos.
In the middle of the morning a storm arrived in just a couple and get us really soaked. Luckily we had our rain jackets and trousers on so no damage were taken! The only downside is the 2 hours walking under a rain/ice storm that made all the terrain very slippery. The mood wasn't that great at this time but we kept walking and here's where my knee started to feel really bad. It's not so uncommon to feel pain during a long downhill, more if you're carrying 20+ kgs for the last 3 days. So the last couple of hour until the hut was for me an eternal pain.
The Þórsmörk area is famous for its green and luxuriant beauty: here it is the vegetation that reigns supreme, as you go up and down an almost hilly path to emerge on the very wide bed of the Krossa river.
Upon entering the Þórsmörk, hikers will reach a junction in the trail with a sign that denotes three options for camping. The campgrounds are a few kilometers apart, so pay attention to which direction you want to head before setting off.
The final river you need to cross: very deep, very strong and very cold.
Volcano Huts: Privately-run campground is located in the opposite direction of the other two camping options. If ending your hike in Þórsmörk, be sure to check with your bus service to ensure that they pick up from Volcano Huts, not just the Þórsmörk/Langidalur Campsite.
In this hut you can find restaurant/bar, free wifi access and electric plug as well as all the other usual service if you stay for the night.
Þórsmörk/Langidalur Campsite (the one we choose): this campground is a bit more basic than Volcano Huts, but is still lovely nonetheless. It is run by the Icelandic Touring Association (Ferðafélag Íslands), which operates all of the other huts and campsites along the Laugavegur up to this point and the facilities will likely feel familiar. It is located on the riverbed and has plenty of nice grassy areas for pitching a tent. It is well-positioned for pickup if ending your hike in Þórsmörk, but it would also be a good option if you’re continuing on to Skogar. If you plan on completing the Fimmvörðuháls hike, you should definitely plan to camp either here or at the Básar Campground.
Básar Campsite: sprawling campground run by the Útivist Travel Association. You’ll have to walk another 1.5 km past the Þórsmörk/Langidalur campsite across the rocky riverbed to reach it, but you’ll have a head start if you’re hiking to Skogar the next day (which could be valuable since Fimmvörðuháls is a long hike). This campground doesn’t have a lot in the way of views, but it does offer nice facilities, sheltered campsites, and grassy pitches.
Here's what I can tell you from our experience.
If you plan to reach Skogar, wake up early in Emstrur and try to reach the Volcano Hut before 3pm so you can enjoy a great hamburger while your electronics charge (ask entering the restaurant). After have charged batteries of your body and your devices, start the walk again and reach the Básar Campsite for the night (it will take about 1 hour).
If you plan to stop here and get back to Reykjavík, head to Volcano or Langidalur Campsite depending on the bus you choose. If possible sleep at the Volcano Hut last night and enjoy the last evening there with a walking to the top of the Valahnukur Mountain (about 1hour to reach the top).
As said, we decided to camp at Langidalur that is actually a pretty nice place. But since we would kill to eat something more solid for reward, after setting up the tent, we decided to take a walk without the backpacks to the Volcano hut were I've read they serve incredible hamburger... until 3pm! Obviously we arrived around 5pm and the only thing at that time is the buffet that is nothing but expensive. Davide was so down that we drink only 1 beer sitting there in silent. We also charged back some devices as I was running pretty low on battery for everything. Luckily the sunset made something incredible for us and make us happy again of what we're accomplished and ready for what's next...
DON’T STOP HERE
The Laugavegur trail ends here but from here you can start the next one, the Fimmvöröuháls Trail that in 24km let you arrive at the famous Skógafoss waterfall.
